Figure 1 - Dior’s Chokers consisted of numerical charms which reflected the heritage of the brand. 1947 reflected the year that Christian Dior released his first collection whilst 8 reflects the date 8th October 1946 in which the house was born.
As a child of the 90’s myself, the revival of the Choker has aways seemed more Spice Girls than Saint Laurent. However, throughout the recent SS16 collections, this accessory seemed to have appeared on numerous catwalks. Moving away from 90’s ‘pop culture’ plastic, it appears the choker has been regenerated. Introducing the Romantic Choker.
Perhaps most dominant on the catwalk of Christian Dior - Simons combined thin silk scarves, layered with ribbon and pendant spectacle gems. Charms were hung from these which made viewers reminisce over the heritage and history of the brand itself (see above). Etro and Markus Lupfer both used embellished ribbon chokers whilst Vivienne Westwood Red Label went for more statement chandelier-style neck pieces. As a trend in itself, it has the capability to appeal to the masses. Without a doubt, similar pieces will be stocked on the shelves of Topshop and Zara in a number of weeks.
However, in terms of wearability - the choker is certainly not an item of practicality, being somewhat restrictive whilst also bearing a number of negative connotations to it. Traditionally, it was seen as an item of sexuality, rebellion and ownership. One of the first recorded appearances of the choker was in the 1800’s, where Manet’s painting ‘Olympia’ depicted a woman reclining on a bed, wearing nothing but a small ribbon tied around her neck. This identified her as a prostitute. However, the choker was later popularised - being seen as a sign of the elite - in the late 1800’s by Alexandra, Princess of Wales. Fast forward to the mid 1940’s, ‘Life Magazine’ talked about return of the ‘dog collar’. In the midst of a society dominated by men (even within fashion), this signified issues of the ownership of women.
Figure 2 - Manet, E. (1863) 'Olympia'
The revelation of Dior’s ‘New Look’ closely followed. He designed boned and restrictive pieces, under the assumption that women should head back to the home having been in employment throughout the war. In a time today which pushes for female empowerment, it seems that perhaps these items are pointing to darker days. However, with the real and most well known revival of the choker in the 90s, much of the history before this is often distorted and forgotten. Anyone from Britney, Christina to the Hilton Twins were seen wearing them, meaning that they quickly became part of the mainstream within pop culture.
In the last few years, we seem to have had a repeat. The likes of the superstar Jenner Twins, Miley Cyrus and Rihanna have all been seen sporting the choker leading it to become a mass trend, particularly amongst the youth. This subsequently highlights the relationship between celebrity culture and fashion, and the impact it has on trends today.
Figure 4 - The 90's Choker
Figure 5 - The New Romantic Choker
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