Christian Dior SS16: Simons' Flower Garden

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In Spring 1947, Christian Dior released his revolutionary collection which was labelled by Carmel Snow as the ‘New Look’. This was due to the fact that Dior’s designs were in divergence to the wartime clothing which women had formerly been used to. Within this collection, his pièce de résistance was the ‘Bar Suit’. 

Throughout the war, fabric has been rationed meaning that this piece was seen as an item of undivided luxury, using over 7.5 metres of fabric for the skirt alone. The brand itself was created by textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac, meaning that part of the brand image was using large amounts of fabric. Therefore women were able to come out of employment, large amounts of fabric were able to be used meaning Dior wanted to change the way that women dressed themselves.  

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Figure 3 - Dior's New Look

In the light of this, it almost seems paradoxical that the majority of Simons’ SS16 collection for Dior consisted of numerous ‘barely there’ layered piece. Made in the sheerest and crispest cotton made (known as ‘organdie’), the looks were minimalistic and light. Inspired by Peter Weir’s ‘Picnic at Hanging Rock’, (trailer shown below) it was the perfect collaboration of youthfulness and seduction. 16 out of the 50 looks subsisted of relaxed, monochromatic tailoring. There was even a feature of the distinguished bar jacket, yet was made looser and more masculine. One of Dior’s aims had been to exaggerate the female shape, so this was a shift far away his original intentions. 

Perhaps Simons’ was intending to try and relate the collection to the contemporary working woman. We live in a time where there has been a huge wave of female empowerment, so there is a call for items that have a strong essence of practicality. Take the introduction of the Parka - an item which originally would have been far identified with Dior. Yet Simons’ has taken it, and had it heavily embroided with chiffon flowers. The craftsmanship reflecting the brand's sublime couturier skills.  This is just one of the many pieces which is contemporary and wearable yet still emulates Dior’s original enchantment with the natural elements.

The Picnic at Hanging Rock

It would be a crime not to mention the setting of the show itself. Set in the palatial Cour Carrée, a huge construction was built entirely covered in 400,000 individual blue delphiniums. Under the eye of set designer Alexandre de Betak, gargantuan indigo cranes were placed inside in which lay in direct contrast to gleamed white floor. This setting reflected the collection and subsequently the implausible talent of Simons. For me he has succeeded in keeping the heritage of the brand yet has also moved it in a direction towards the future. Feminine yet edgy. The perfect combination for the modern woman.

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